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While breakfast may still be the most important meal of the day, brunch is quickly becoming the most popular. Dozens of restaurants in Atlanta are altering their menus to include this crowd-pleasing, breakfast-lunch hybrid. Only one restaurant, however, is using brunch to give back.
Managed by the Atlanta Center for Self-Sufficiency, a non-profit organization focused on helping Atlanta’s homeless community, Cafe 458 is located in the heart of the Old Fourth Ward and, on weekdays, serves as Atlanta’s only restaurant for the homeless.
Cafe 458 serves only men and women with “reservations,” those who have been referred to Cafe 458 by another social service organization. In many cases, the lunch these people receive at Cafe 458 is the only balanced, full meal they receive all day. The restaurant creates a warm and social environment. Founders A.B Short and Bob Freeman wanted to establish a space where homeless men and women could maintain their dignity and be treated with respect. The restaurant also serves as the Cafe 458 Life Stabilization Program, a program that provides guidance to members of the homeless community struggling with substance abuse and mental and physical disabilities.
I visited Cafe 458 for Sunday brunch, when it is open to the public. After having some difficulty locating a parking spot in the maze-like Edgewood neighborhood, a volunteer hostess greeted me warmly. I was given the option of two dining rooms and chose to sit in the brighter of the two.
The room was decorated sparsely with artwork and each table had a small centerpiece. The room didn’t quite give off a restaurant vibe, it looked more like a doctor’s office waiting room with clusters of tables instead of rows of seats, but it was well lit with natural light from the large front window. Some music would have made the environment more lively.
My hostess explained to me that all proceeds from Sunday brunch, including tips, go directly to ACSS and its programs. The restaurant wasn’t very busy so I was able to sit wherever I pleased. I chose a seat next to the window and began looking over the menu.
I ordered a coffee to start with from a friendly waitress, who brought it out very quickly. The menu had several tempting choices such as salmon croquettes and Georgia shrimp and grits, but I decided on the sausage and four cheese frittata, a biscuit, chicken sausage, seasoned home fries and a Belgian waffle. My waitress seemed slightly inexperienced, but her cheerful and accommodating attitude more than made up for it.
The quiet room fostered easy conversation making the speedy service seem even quicker. Before I knew it, my food had arrived. At first glance, everything looked delicious. The presentations were clean and simple, and I could smell cinnamon and brown sugar wafting from the waffle I ordered. I couldn’t wait to sink my teeth into it.
I started with the frittata; chock full of sausage, veggies and covered in cheese, the eggs were cooked to perfection. It was warm and the cheese had melted nicely. The sausage was well seasoned and the veggies tasted fresh. The meal was perfectly portioned, served with a biscuit and a small, slightly confusing, side of arugula. This was especially nice compared to the outrageously large portions at other Atlanta brunch destinations (Highland Bakery I’m looking at you).
The sides were all tasty, but none proved to be above adequate. The home fries were crispy and peppery, but didn’t taste earthy and dirty, which I have experienced in other places. The biscuits were your average southern, homestyle variety. More savory than sweet with a crispy exterior and a crumbly, soft interior that did not require extra butter. I wasn’t given jam or other accompaniments, but I didn’t find that I needed them. The sausage was the most disappointing item I ordered. The pale, disc shaped meat tasted fine, being both sweet and spicy, but it had an unappealing texture. I didn’t have more than one bite.
After these slight disappointments, I wasn’t expecting much from the waffle. It was, after all, served with packaged syrup instead of fresh. I can happily report my waffle, however, dusted with powdered sugar, exceeded my expectations. It was large and fluffy, but not too heavy. Though the cinnamon smelled strong, it was not overpowering and the waffle was not sickeningly sweet.
I concluded that Cafe 458 puts a greater emphasis on its entrees, such as the waffle and the frittata, than its basic sides. The meal was reasonably priced and my server informed me that I could receive a 5 percent discount by completing a quick survey. It was also tax deductible, another plus.
I will probably return to Cafe 458 simply because I think it is a good cause and the food was deserving of a second chance. Upon returning, I will most likely opt for one of the more tantalizing and interesting entree choices such as the chicken and waffles or the blackened salmon. You have to be 18 to volunteer at the Sunday brunch, but anyone 14 and older can volunteer at the restaurant on the weekdays. I would recommend Cafe 458 to anyone who wants their eggs sunny-side-up served with a side of social consciousness.