No food has more potential for golden-brown, crispy deliciousness than chicken. When cooked correctly, chicken is succulent, juicy and full of flavor. Best of all, it can fill your stomach without emptying your wallet. On my quest for the best cheap chicken, I sampled the best Atlanta has to offer, all while staying within a mile of Grady.
With five chairs, a counter and a small kitchen, Best Wings (463 Ponce de Leon Ave.) runs a compact operation. The takeout and delivery restaurant sells chicken wings in orders of up to 100 pieces, doused in exotic-sounding sauces like Jamaican Jerk, Texas BBQ and Cajun Teriyaki.
The owner of Best Wings served up my wings ($4 for six pieces), but preferred to remain anonymous after grumbling, “I don’t like Grady High School.”
He said Grady students are his worst customers, estimating that about 30 students who ordered chicken from Grady did not meet their delivery. The chicken told a similar story of disappointment.
The hot buffalo sauce knocked me backwards with a punch of real hot pepper, but the watery blue cheese dressing failed in its only job: adequately contrasting the sauce’s saltiness. The wings, made to order, benefitted from spot-on crispiness, but the problems with Best Wings—including the animosity towards Grady students—forced me to continue my search for the best cheap chicken elsewhere.
The wings improved a few doors down at the recently christened Zaxby’s (425 Ponce de Leon Ave.). The Wings & Things plate ($7.59) soothes every primal need the chicken-eater might have. This mountain of chicken tenders, wings, crinkle-cut fries and Texas toast encourages sharing.
The lightly seasoned batter clung to the chicken tenders, which were indeed tender. Zax Sauce, a combination of ketchup, mayonnaise and spices, complemented the chicken well. On the wing side of the equation, the Tongue Torch sauce packed a peppery, deep and smoky punch.
The Kickin’ Chicken Sandwich ($5.59 with fries and a soft drink), which features chicken tenders covered in Tongue sauce and ranch dressing between two pieces of Texas toast, combines the best Zaxby’s has to offer.
The posters adorning Zaxby’s walls display various preparations of our choice bird, making every booth an altar to the poultry gods. Zaxby’s, though slightly more expensive than its fowl-cooking counterparts, prepares chicken with unmatchable pizazz. Eaters armed with a Grady Knight Card, which are sold by the football team, will receive a free soft drink with any “Most Popular” menu choice.
The culinary colosseum of cheap chicken would be incomplete without the next restaurant as a contender. Popeye’s Louisiana Kitchen (683 Boulevard) was born in New Orleans and offers Louisiana-style fried chicken and shrimp with Cajun spices.
Given the reputation of the hyper-flavored side dishes and whimsical sauces (e.g. Mardi Gras Mustard), the chicken lacked energy. Each of the six nuggets ($4.79 with a side and a soft drink) was chewier and more rubbery than any other meat I tasted. Crispiness was spot on at Popeye’s; unfortunately, in the world of chicken, beauty is more than skin deep.
The fried chicken, while more expensive, is a better choice. The Knight Card also includes a deal for Popeye’s: buy a three-piece meal with a medium drink and receive a free two-piece meal.
Equipped with a more veteran palette, I trudged on through the calories to reach inexpensive chicken’s final frontier. The kingmaker of chicken politics and the chain that has emerged as the most controversial poultry purveyor on the scene is Chick-fil-A (You know where one is).
It seems Chick-fil-A cannot be dethroned as the supreme leader of cheap chicken. The breading creates thousands of nooks and crannies that translate into the signature crunch of the Chicken Sandwich ($2.95 by itself).
The chicken brought delicious taste and texture, but not poultry perfection. At busier locations, sandwiches are not made to order, and may sit out for around five minutes; this leaves enough time for pickles to make the bottom of the chicken breast soggy. Once the train wreck has started it cannot be stopped. The bread is rendered useless, putting a damper on the entire experience.
For traditionalists, Chick-fil-A is a safe choice. For those who favor a different experience, Zaxby’s serves top-quality chicken with slightly more adventure.
If you want to order from Best Wings, just pretend you are from out of town.
