In the true spirit of a southerner (no pun intended), for this issue’s “Quest for the Best,” I searched for intown Atlanta’s best barbecue. I know what you are probably thinking: barbecue in February? Although it is typically a summertime food, this southern delicacy is yummy year round.
First, I visited Fat Matt’s Rib Shack (1811 Piedmont Road NE). Since its founding in 1990, Fat Matt’s, just down the street from Grady, has pleased many hungry patrons with its famous ribs. The incredible tenderness and perfectly vinegary sauce that drenches the pork makes for some of the most appetizing and messy barbecue I have had the pleasure of eating. My philosophy when it comes to barbecue is “the messier, the better.” The sauce had a spicy tang that people of all pallets can enjoy. The side of potato salad and baked beans I ordered were not as life changing, but, hey, it’s not called “Fatt Matt’s Potato Salad Shack.” Additionally, all of the food was reasonably priced and worth every penny.
The next stop on my search was Pig N Chik BBQ (1815 Briarcliff Road). At this local joint, the homestyle cooking and cozy hospitality made for a very enjoyable experience. I was saddened to find that the pulled- pork sandwich I ordered was quite dry and had a smokier flavor (which is typically not my preference for barbecue) compared to the barbecue at the other places I sampled. While the sandwich was not my favorite, the potato salad and baked beans were exceptional. The potato salad, unlike that of the other joints I visited, was not too pickled and did not have too much of an onion taste. The potatoes were mashed to the perfect consistency, skins and all, and the baked beans were cooked in a distinct, homemade sauce that created a strange and wonderful combination of both sweet and sour.
The combination of Fat Matt’s sandwich-making skills and Pig N Chik’s delicious side dishes would make for the ultimate barbecue meal.
Just down North Highland Road is D.B.A. BBQ’s Virginia-Highland location (1190 North Highland Ave. NE). It is just one franchise of a locally-owned chain and was among the most expensive of the group. With a single pulled-pork sandwich and the choice of one side costing more than $10 (one hour of my babysitting services), I was expecting the taste to surpass its competitors. Although very satisfying, I could have made the $17 half rack of baby back ribs and side of potato salad and garlic green beans at home for a fraction of the price. Cost aside, however, their offer of a choice between two well-mixed sauces—a sweeter, tangy one and a sour, vinegary one—was considerate and a delicious addition to their well-smoked and fairly tender ribs.
Like D.B.A., my next stop was also on the pricier side. When I arrived at the Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q in Little 5, (1238 DeKalb Ave. NE), in an attempt to get a more comprehensive view of the quality of barbecue dishes offered in the area, I ordered the waitress’s recommendation: the beef brisket plate. The meat was too dry and smoky for my taste, but the flavor came from cooking the meat on a large slab of Hickory wood, the establishment’s trademark method. The wide array of side choices as well as the substantial and satisfying barbecue pork sandwich (valued at $9.95) are certainly pluses, but folks on a budget can get more bang for their buck elsewhere.
Just around the corner at Fat Matt’s and Pig N Chick, the barbecue is cheaper and better. Someone wishing for a slightly more upscale environment, however, may prefer D.B.A. or Fox Bros.
No survey of Atlanta barbecue can be complete without a stop at Daddy D’z BBQ Joynt (264 Memorial Drive SE), most often celebrated for having the “best barbecue in Atlanta.” The name itself makes it clear that Daddy D’z is no ordinary establishment. Its eccentric appearance almost reminds you of an AP Art project you would find in Brandhorst’s room. Decked out in homemade and somewhat ironically patriotic imagery, the fun and spirited dining area alone makes the trip downtown worth it.
From the looks of it, nothing about my pulled pork plate and side of macaroni and cheese and potato salad was noticeably different or remarkable from the other places I visited. After the first bite, however, my disposition changed. The pork was tender and juicy but did not fall apart; the sauce was spicy and vinegary but not overwhelming. Despite their superior food, Daddy D’z prices were moderate. In sum, Daddy D’z seems to have found the perfect middle, and it definitely lived up to its hype. (And thankfully, I was also a total mess after I finished eating.)
So, next time you are looking for that wintertime meal to warm your heart, look beyond the obvious winter foods like soup and chili or turkey and gravy. Embrace the stereotype of ordering some good ole’ southern barbecue. After all, when it comes to barbecue, Daddy knows best.
Kelly • Feb 26, 2014 at 10:39 pm
DBA is not a chain restaurant. It is locally owned by a guy names Matt Coggin.